Gorgeous Project

Celebrating Women that climb

Dream of White Horses

My friend Susanne and I climbed ‘A Dream of White Horses’ at Gogarth in Anglesey in summer 2016. It was a mild August day, quite early in the morning, and no-one was around. It was the perfect conditions: dry rock, no queue to get on, no-one breathing down our necks behind us. This was a climb that we had both wanted to do for years but had somehow never got round to it. The climb was iconic and the name alone was highly seductive. At last we were now here.

The abseil down to the base was a little unnerving as we had no idea where we were ending up; you cannot see the bottom from above. But as expected, it became clear as we descended. Yet the climb has to be taken seriously, given the setting and the route finding. Despite it looking featureless from afar, in fact we found the climbing easy, with holds everywhere, but we knew that should you go off route, you could get into trouble. This is why we carried a photo-copy of the climb with us to make sure we went the right way.

What makes this such a wonderful and memorable climb is the location and the atmosphere. White horses do gallop along beneath you, sea spray shoots upwards and razor bills, like little bullets, zoom by, dive bombing into the sea. It is a quite a long climb, four pitches, and took us about two hours or so. We felt so exhilarated to have done it: it is memorable in a way that few climbs are, especially now that I am almost entirely a sports climber (shame!). This is a climb that will stay in my memory as one of the greats.

Lucy Bland